Jamaica
The sugar industry of Jamaica to which its rum industry is closely related, is briefly documented in the West Indies Sugar Mills & Factories section herein. Its rum industry though, dates back to 1673 shortly after the British Invasion of Jamaica when the island became a British colony by virtue of the Invasion of the Treaty of Madrid of 1670. In its beginnings, sugar estates in Jamaica were owned by British absentee owners, therefore the majority of its rum production was exported to England. Although jamaican rum competed for the market with rum from the other British colonies, it was Jamaican rum that developed a loyal following and commanded the higher prices.
Jamaican rum is distinct to rum from other Caribbean islands and famous for its particular flavor profile, commonly identified as pungent, earthy and/or funky. In its early days, Jamaican rums were categorized using ester [1] content independent of the source distillery. As stated by Matt Pietrek and Carrie Smith in their book Modern Caribbean Rum, a broad view of these categories was provided in a 1927 newspaper that listed them as: German Rum - rich in ethers which are mainly extracted by German chemists; Plummer and Wedderburn Rums - from Westmoreland and surrounding districts, rich flavored, too rich for some palates and Common Clean Rum - generally favored in the north part of the island and appears to be one that conforms more or less to a regular standard production.
Jamaican production of high ester rum was largely influenced by a German tariff imposed back in the 1889 that made it uneconomical to import standard rum, so producers began importing ultra-concentrated ester rums which would then be mixed with locally produced neutral grain or potato spirits without losing their strong flavor. This blended product became known as Rum-Verschnitt especially in Flensburg, historically known as Germany's "Rum Capital" which built its wealth in the 18th Century by importing highly aromatic, heavy raw rum mainly rom Jamaica and blending it with local neutral agricultural spirits. Still today, Rum-Verschnitt continue to be produced and bottled by A.H. Johannsen known as the oldest rum house in the city.
Today distilleries in Jamaica and elsewhere, differentiate between different distillate types by assigning names, known as marks or marquees, that state the range of ester levels and in Jamaica are registered with the Spirits Pool Association Ltd. who regulates the maximum allowable ester level to 1,600 gr/hlAA or grams per hectoliter of absolute alcohol. As a means of comparison, light, column-distilled rums like Bacardi Carta Blanca typically have an ester content between 20 to 60 gr/hlAA.
The 20th Century saw a consolidation of the Jamaican rum industry due in part to the collapse of the sugar industry. In 1934 there were thirty four distilleries in Jamaica, in 1955 that number that was twenty further reduced by 165 to nine of which five remain in operation today. This process of consolidation required the Jamaican government intervention and the establishment of the National Rums of Jamaica (NRJ) in 1980 to combine ownership of four distilleries owned by the Jamaican government: Clarendon Distillers Ltd. (51%), Innswood Distillery Ltd (51%), Innswood Vinegar Ltd (100%) and Long Pond Distillers Ltd (100%). When the Jamaican government acquired Long Pond Distillers Ltd. from The Seagram Co. Ltd, its rum was used for the Captain Morgan brand sold in Europe, part of the purchase price was giving Seagram a 49% stake in Clarendon Distillers Ltd whose rum for Captain Morgan was then sourced from Clarendon instead of Long Pond.
In 2006, NRJ was in serious financial difficulties and the Jamaican government was in no position to provide additional financial support. Therefore NRJ sought private investors to provide new capital and alleviate its financial needs. It then entered into an agreement with Demerara Distillers Ltd of Guyana, Goddard Enterprises of Barbados and the Jamaican government owned National Sugar Company Ltd, each having a 33% ownership participation in NRJ. In 2017 Goddard Enterprises 33% share was transferred to Maisson Ferrand when it purchased West Indies Rum Distillery from Goddard Enterprises.
Appleton Estate
In 1655, the land in Nassau Valley that would become the Appleton estate was granted to British Captain Francis Dickinson for his service in the Invasion of Jamaica. In 1749, the first recorded distillation of rum occurred on the estate, officially launching a legacy that has spanned over two hundred seventy five years. In 1871, William Hill acquired the estate but ran into financial difficulties and in 1900 sold to Alexander McDowell Nathan. In 907 Nathan died in the 1907 Kingston Earthquake, as a result of his unfortunate death, the plantation’s manager James Miller Farquharson took over the estate and lead a massive expansion both in sugarcane cultivation and rum distillation. Upon his death in 1914, his younger brother Walter took over the Estate.
In 1916, Appleton Estate was put up for sale and was purchased by Lindo Bros. & Co., headed by Cecil Lindo, who that same year purchased J. Wray & Nephew Ltd. from a different owner. These transactions brought Appleton Estate and J. Wray & Nephew Ltd. under the same corporate ownership. In 1957 Lindo Bros. & Co. sold J. Wray & Nephew Ltd. to a syndicate composed of Lascelles deMercado & Co. (33.3%), Henriquez Bros. Ltd (33.3%) and Sir Harold Mitchell (33.3%). In 1960, the biggest rum deal in Jamaica was consummated when J. Wray & Nephew Ltd, Edwin Charley who was part owner of Innswood Distillery Ltd and The Seagram Co. Ltd interests in Jamaica merged to form Consolidated International Corp. Ltd with a capital of £5 million. In 1965 Consolidated International Corp. Ltd acquired The Rum Company Jamaica Ltd, a subsidiary of the Swiss Compania Rum Basel makers of Coruba Rum thus the Coruba brand joined the J. Wray & Nephew portfolio. 1970 Consolidated International renames itself to Wray & Nephew Group Ltd. In1986 Lascelles deMercado & Co. acquired the shares owned by Henriquez Bros. Ltd. that way acquiring the New Yarmouth Ltd and its New Yarmouth distillery. In 1989 Lascelles deMercado & Co. purchased the shares from Sir Harold Mitchell making J. Wray & Nephew Ltd. its wholly owned subsidiary. In 2002 Edwin Charley Jamaica Ltd, Estate Distributors, Sangster’s and Wray & Nephew came together to form the Wray & Nephew Group owned by the Lascelles deMercado Group.
In 2008, Trinidad’s CL Financial, Ltd, the parent company of Angostura Holdings Ltd. through its subsidiary Angostura Ltd. purchased an 86.87% stake Lascelle deMercado & Co., the parent entity operating J. Wray and Nephew Ltd. In 2012, Davide Campari-Milano N.V. now Campari Group, acquired 81.4% of the outstanding shares of Jamaican publicly traded holding company Lascelles deMercado & Co. for a total purchase price of approximately US$415 million, the third largest acquisition in Campari’s history following the successful acquisitions of Wild Turkey and Skyy Spirits. Campari later increased its holdings to near total ownership through additional tender offers. The purchase included Appleton Estate, Appleton Special/White, Wray & Nephew and Coruba brands as well as substantial aging inventory and excluded Lascelles deMercado & Co. insurance business, Globe and its transportation assets as well as securities in other companies all of which were divested after the purchase. Rather than closing Lascelles deMercado & Co., in 2013 Campari merged it into J. Wray & Nephew Ltd., which now manages the entire wine and spirits portfolio, while other non-liquor assets from the conglomerate. Today Lascelles deMercado & Co. operates a subsidiary of Campari Group.
For years Appleton Estate has been the best known and oldest continuously operating sugar estate and rum distillery in Jamaica. However, in 2020 their sugar factory ceased to operate due continues financial losses. Appleton Estate operates under the guidance of Master Blender Joy Spence, the first female master blender in the spirits industry. They adhere to strict Jamaican laws requiring minimum age statements, meaning a 12-year-old bottle contains liquid aged at least 12 years in tropical climates. Their premium expressions Appleton Estate 12 Year Old Rare Casks and 21 Year Old Nassau Valley Casks, appeal directly to whiskey drinkers. Around 2015, Appleton rebranded its its Appleton Special value expressions as Kingston 62 and its J. Wray brand as Wray & Nephew.
Worthy Park
Although Worthy Park, located in the Lluidas Valley in St Catherine Parish about thirty seven miles northwest of Kingston, has been growing sugarcane and distilling rum since 1741, in 1962 they stopped rum production although they continued to grow sugarcane and produce sugar and molasses that then were sold to other distilleries on the island. In 2004 its then owner Gordon Clarke, fourth generation family member owners of the estate since 1918, decided to update the distillery and restart distillation. Today, they are unique in Jamaica in that they have complete control of the production process of the molasses they use. It is a traditional single-estate producer, meaning all sugarcane farming, molasses production, distillation, and aging happen on-site.
Rum bulk sales were restarted in 2005 and in 2007 the first Rum Bar brand 63% ABV overproof rum was launched. Rum-Bar Rum brand is their accessible house brand created for the local market that includes a White Overproof, a Gold rum and Rum Bar Rum Cream. It was not until 2017 that the first Worthy Park brand rum was released. All their rums are 100% copper pot-distilled, free of added sugars and artificial flavorings.
They have a light fermentation style done in four stainless steel tanks under controlled temperature and a heavy fermentation style done in white American oak vats that take two to three weeks. The ester content of the lighter style starts at 60 gr/hlAA and the heavy style goes up to 800 gr/hlAA, far lower than the up to 1,600 gr/hlAA in other Jamaican rums. Its distillery, adjacent to the sugar factory, is Jamaica’s smallest with only one Forsythe double retort pot still. Just a few meters from the distillation facility is the aging buildings where about ten thousand ex-bourbon casks are vertically stacked six high.
Long Pond
Located in Trelawny Parish also home to Hampden Estate and know for the production of high ester rums, the Long Pond Estate was established back in 1753. Luca Gargano in his book Atlas du Rhum states that “there is no trace of any successive owners until 1921”. However, Matt Pietrek and Carrie Smith in their book Modern Caribbean Rum state that “Long Pond’s early days are not well-documented. As early as 1881, it was owned by J.B. Sherriff & Co. Ltd, Scottish blenders who later owned the Bowmore whisky distillery on Islay.” Sherriff had established J. B. Sherriff & Co. (Jamaica) Ltd for its Jamaica operations, under which ownership they purchased several local estates in Trelawny and made them part of Long Pond. The firm in Scotland went into voluntary liquidation in1920 but that did not vanish the company completely, it continued to operate as a restructured entity under the same name.
In 1953 Canadian industry giant The Seagram Co. Ltd. bought Long Pond from J. B. Sherriff & Co. (Jamaica) Ltd. renaming them Trelawny Estates Ltd. Since 1944 Seagram had been producing all the Captain Morgan brand rum for sale in Europe at Long Pond, so it made sense for them to acquire it in order to secure their rum supply. Although in the 1970s The Seagram Co. Ltd. was not in financial difficulties, its liquor business was beginning to experience long-term stagnant growth. Seagram began streamlining its operations by closing underperforming or overly volatile international operations, for which in 1977 they recorded a $19.2 million extraordinary loss primarily tied to business closings that included its heavily burdened sugar and rum investments in Jamaica. That being the case, in order to avoid massive job losses in regional farming communities, protect Jamaica’s bulk rum export market and to prevent the total collapse of the local sugar and rum industries, in 1977 the Jamaican government acquired Trelawny Estates Ltd. from Seagram.
In 1980, ownership of the Clarendon distillery the Jamaican government owned by virtue of its acquisition of Trelawny Estate from Seagram in 1977, was transferred to the newly created National Rums of Jamaica (NRJ) who also acquired the Long Pond and Innswood distilleries. However the Long Pond sugar factory was not part of the purchase and is now owned by Everglade farms Ltd part the Hussey Group of Companies. For most of the time between 2012 and 2019, Long Pond did not operate because of technical problems and a fire that destroyed its fermentation building. In 2019, Long Pond relaunched production with limited capacity while a new fermentation building was constructed and new vats installed. Today Long Pond continues to produce rum in bulk and in 2021 the Long Pond rum brand was launched and its first expressions released.
New Yarmouth
New Yarmouth in Clarendon Parish is an old distillery whose history, though not well documented, goes back to the 18th Century. The Henriquez family came to Jamaica in the mid 1700 from Portugal. Abraham Henriques, one of the earliest members of the Henriques family, had by the turn of the 18th century become one of the largest land owners with some three thousand acres of land. In the early 20th Century, they owned New Yarmouth Estate which they had bought from its British absentee owners, the Dudley and Ward [2] families and were important players in the sugar industry. Their firm, Henriquez Bros. Ltd, was a major engineering firm catering to the Jamaican sugar industry.
In 1957 Lindo Bros. & Co., also of Portuguese descent, sold J. Wray & Nephew Ltd. to a syndicate, two of whose members were Lascelles deMercado and Henriquez Bros. Ltd with a 33% participation each. While Lascelles deMercado and Henriquez Bros. Ltd began as independent Jamaican family empires, their corporate structures fully intertwined over decades of joint ventures in the Jamaican rum and automotive industries. In July 1986, J. Wray & Nephew acquired New Yarmouth Ltd, transaction that consolidated the New Yarmouth sugar factory, distillery, and the physical Henriques Brothers Ltd. land under the J. Wray & Nephew corporate ownership.
New Yarmouth is best known as the production site of the Wray & Nephew Overproof Rum as well as its other brands Coruba, Conquering Lion and Edwin Charley. New Yarmouth rum is never bottled under its own name.
Clarendon
The site of the Clarendon distillery was once the site of the Monymusk sugar mill and distillery, today they are adjacent to each other. As stated in the Monymusk page in the West Indies Sugar Mills & Factories section herein, in 1901 J. Wray & Nephew Ltd, then owned by Colonel Charles James “C. J.” Ward ( -1913) who had inherited it in 1864 from his uncle John Wray ( -1870), purchased Monymusk Sugar Estate. After Ward’s death in 1913, in 1916 his trustees sold Monymusk Estate to Lindo Brothers & Co., whose resident manager was Percy Lindo. In 1917 Lindo Brothers & Co. moved all distillery operations from Monymusk to Appleton Estate which they had acquired a year earlier. In 1928 Lindo Brothers & Co. sold Monumusk Estate to Clarendon Plantation Ltd. who in 1929 sold it to the United Fruit Co. who since the late 1920s had owned Bernard Lodge and Amity Hall sugar factories.
In 1936, Clarendon Plantation Ltd. again acquired ownership of Monymusk Estate in a joint venture with Jamaica Sugar Manufacturing Co. Ownership by the joint venture was short lived as on May 22, 1937 they sold Monymusk Estate to the West Indies Sugar Co. Ltd. (WISCo), established that year with a capital of £600,000 as a subsidiary of sugar industry refiner Tate & Lyle of London. In 1939 WISCo announced the construction of a distillery at the on the sugar mill premises, that lasted only ten years when an even bigger distillery was built. WISCo operated the Monymusk distillery until 1976 when it was on the verge of closing and was acquired by the Jamaican government who renamed it Clarendon Distillers Ltd. In 2006 the Jamaican government established the National Rums of Jamaica (NRJ) to acquire and operate Clarendon, Long Pond and Innswood distilleries.
Claredon DistillersLtd. is today owne by NRJ (73%) amd Diageo (27%). When Diageo acquired the liquor industry assets of The Seagram Co. Ltd in 2001, it acquired the 45% Seagram owned in Clarendon Distillers Ltd. However, this participation was reduced to 27% in 2006 when the NRJ was reorganized and its ownership split between Demerara Distillers Ltd of Guyana (33.3%), Goddard Enterprises of Barbados (33.3%) and National Sugar of Jamaica (33.3%).
Clarendon Distillers Ltd produced the rum used by Diageo for its Captain Morgan Spiced Rum sold in Europe and it also supplies natural spirits in bulk to E&A Scheer, Maison Ferrand for its Planteray Rum brand and Sazerac Co. for its well known Myers's Rum and produce the Monymusk Rum brand. Clarendon has no aging facilities, its rum is aged at the Innswood aging facility.
Hampden Estate
Hampden Estate, located in the Queen of Spain Valley in Trelawny, has been operational since 1753 and is famous for its wild-fermentation techniques and 100% copper pot still production. Its rum is one of the most distinguishable and quintessential example of typical Jamaican “funky” style rum. They produce heavy, high ester rums known for a distinct, intensely aromatic flavor profile called "funk" (or hogo). Their annual Distillery Edition is named “Great House” in honor of the house that was built by Archibald Stirling in 1759 overlooking the estate which ground floor served as a rum store and the upper level, added circa 1799, served as his residence. The house is used today as the place of reception for guests and visitors.
It was established by Scottish immigrant Archibald Stirling who operated the property as a sugar plantation and rum distillery until it passed to his son, Archibald Jr. and then to other relatives. In 1852, the Stirling family sold the estate to George McFarquhar Lawson ( -1875), who is credited with establishing the estate's famous high-ester rum production. It was inherited by his grandson Dermot Owen Kelly-Lawson (1898-bef1934) whose initials DOK identify Hampden’s famous higher ester marquee. Dermot Owen Kelly-Lawson's daughter Ena Kelly-Lawson, married William H. Farquharson whose family at one time also owned Appleton Estate, owned and managed Hampden estate's sugar and rum operations until facing financial difficulties in 2003 when the Jamaican government acquired the estate via the Jamaica Sugar Company to protect local jobs. In 2009 the government sold the estate at public auction to Everglade Farms Ltd part of the Hussey Group of Companies as part of the divestment procedures of the Jamaica Sugar Company assets. Everglad farms Ltd. also acquired the Long Pond sugar factory as part of the process but not the Long Pond distillery.
During all its existence before being acquired by Everglade Farms Ltd, the estate produced only unaged rum in bulk, they did not produce rum under a brand of their own. In March 2011, Hampden began setting aside rum for aging in ex-bourbon casks and launched the first brand of their own, Rum Fire, a white overproof rum bottled at 63% ABV directly off the copper pot stills without any cask aging. When the rum they had set aside for aging was ready, in 2018 the Hampden Estate brand was launched which today consists of a core range, the Great House distillery edition, the New Beginnings, The Maverick and Hampden Estate The Younger special editions and several single and rare casks editions.
Innswood
Innswood distillery was established by Edwin Charley in 1920. In 1960 Booker Brothers purchased Innswood Distillers from the estate of Charley. It then produced rum and alcohol and distilled Gordon’s Gin for the Caribbean market. In 1979 the Jamaican government took control of Innswood Distillery and in 1980 it became one of the four distilleries owned by National Rums of Jamaica. It operated until 1996 when it stopped all distilling operations. Since then it serves as the aging and blending facilities for the rums made at the other distilleries owned by National Rums of Jamaica.
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[1] Esters are aromatic chemical compounds formed during fermentation when organic acids react with alcohols, they are the driving force behind rum's diverse flavor profile.
[2] John Carver owned sugar estates in the old Vere Parish in the early 1700s and when John Ward, Second Viscount of Dudley and Ward (1704-1774) married Mary Carver, the Jamaica sugar estates passed onto the Viscounts and Earls of Dudley and Ward. The family owned the New Yarmouth sugar estate in Vere Parish and the Rymesbury and Whitney sugar estates in Clarendon Parish at least until the mid 1800s, well after the slave emancipation. Upon the death of John Ward, the estates passed onto John Ward II (1725-1788). Since John Ward II had no sons, the title and the estates passed on to his half brother, John William Ward (1781-1833). John William Ward eventually served as the British Foreign Secretary between 1827 and 1828 and was admitted into the Privy Council as Earl of Dudley. There is no available evidence that the Wards ever visited Jamaica so would therefore be considered absentee landlords.